Chevy Silverado 4×4 Front Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement

Here is another great set of do-it-yourself instructions submitted by one of our customers. These will work for many Chevrolet and GMC 4×4 Pickups including: GMC Yukon, Denali, Sierra, Tahoe, Z71, Suburban, Silverado, Escalade, Avalanche, Savanna, and Chevy Express.

Shop for this hub bearing at AutoPartsDirectToYou.com on ebay
These came specifically from a:

2003 Chevy Silverado 4×4

1. Using a 22mm socket, by hand, remove hubcap from wheel.

2. Lift vehicle with jack and support properly.

3. Using 22mm socket or vehicle lug wrench remove lug nuts, remove wheel and set aside.

4. Using a T55 Torx socket, remove the 2 caliper bolts. Set caliper aside. Do not let caliper hang from rubber brake line.

5. Using a 18mm socket remove the two caliper mount bolts. Remove caliper mount and brake rotor and set aside.

6. Using a couple small screwdrivers gently pry the dust cap from the hub. Be careful not to damage it.

7. Using a 1 3/8″ or 35mm socket, remove the axle nut.

8. Using a 15mm socket remove the three hub mounting bolts.

9. Using a small hand sledgehammer and a couple screwdrivers, remove the hub assembly. Unplug the sensor wire and remove. Use the screwdrivers to keep the gap open while hitting hub with hammer.

10. Clean the hub mounting area completely with a wire brush.

11. Apply a very light coat of anti-seize compound to the hub and hub mounting area. Install the brake rotor shield and put hub over axle.

TIP. Be Careful not to get anything on or near the ABS sensor, This may cause the ABS light to illuminate after completion!!

12. Apply thread locker to the 3 hub mounting bolts and install using a 15mm socket.

13. Install the axle nut using the 1 3/8″ or 35mm socket. VERY IMPORTANT- Do not over or under torque this nut. Improper torque of the axle nut is the number one cause of premature bearing failure and does void the warranty!! For a 2003 Silverado the axle nut torque is 156 ft lbs. For any other vehicle please refer to the factory toque specs or you may email or call http://www.AutoPartsDirectToYou.com at 1-866-770-2771.

14. Install the dust cover by tapping lightly around edges.

15. Install the caliper mount and caliper using the 18mm socket and T55 torx.

16. Install the sensor wire using the included mounting hardware and plug the sensor in.

17. Install wheel and hub dust cover using the 22mm socket.

Test drive and make sure all of your noises are gone!!

Click here for chevy truck wheel hub bearings and more!!

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About Josh

I help manage the site here at Auto Repair Instructions. If you are having problems, then I am the one to contact.

Posted on June 1, 2007, in Chevrolet, Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement. Bookmark the permalink. 31 Comments.

  1. When removing the hub, the hub and the inner sleeve that goes over the axle came out, but the flange and the outer part of the hub stayed frozen to the knuckle.. any suggestions on how to remove the rest of it?

  2. Thanks, It would be best to call us and we can give you some suggestions to take care of that. Our toll free Tech Support number is 1-866-770-2771, Thanks

  3. I had the same problem as Russ had where i could not remove hub assembly from knuckle. Local machine shop pressed this out for $20.

  4. I have a 2002 Avalanche, what is the torque spec for the hub nut?

  5. Can you please tell me what the torque spec for the front hub nut on a 2006 chevy silverado 2500 hd lt 4wd diesel 6.6

  6. Just completed the passenger side on my 2002. It was a bear to get three mounting bolts out, but soaked them with good ole WD-40, and they finally came. Make sure to use a 6 point wrench. I darn near stripped one of them with a 12 point!! I got it done, and guess what? The drivers side now making noise!! Go figure!

  7. would you recommend trying this if you are not very familiar with working on vehicles? Mechanic is wanting 800.00 to replace both hub bearings??

  8. LOOK AT THE INSTRUCTIONS AND SEE IF IT IS SOMETHING YOU CAN SEE YOURSELF DOING! I WOULD TRY IT! IT IS A GREAT FIRST TIME PROJECT. WE ALSO HAVE A VIDEO PAGE NOT SURE IF THERE IS A VIDEO ON THERE BUT CHECK IT OUT AUTOMECHS.COM. IF U HAVE QUESTIONS CALL US 1-866-770-2771

  9. This is not something you want to start into without a cheater pipe. You will most likely need it for the axle nut and the bolts that hold the caliper mounts. The center hub bolt is bear too. Make sure to use a quality wrench to prevent stripping both wrench and bolt. Took me about 3hrs start to finish including locating tools, moving cars, and cleanup. Got the torque wrench and axle nut socket through autozone on their tool loan thing, and used the Timken hub assembly. Pretty straight forward. This helped.

  10. These instructions and talking to Joel helped alot. The old hub assembly rusted to the knuckle. Had to remove 6 bolts holding the axle and carefully lowered out of way. Than ended up cutting/banging old bearing away. Done now but people working on older vehicles wear they salt roads at winter will have to fight to get the old hub off. Thanks for help Joel!

  11. What is the torque for the axle nut on a 2006 4X4

  12. This blog saved my butt. Thank you!

  13. We are trying to get the hub assembly off of our 2003 2wd chevy and it seems to be rusted on. We tried heating it, WD-40, hitting it with the screwdriver and hammer, three jawed tool, and nothing seems to be working! It is to the point where we can’t safely drive it down to a shop now.
    Any advice????? PLEASE!???

  14. I am in need of the torque needed when replacing front bearing assembly hub on 2004 Z-71 4×4, and should I stick with factory parts or is the Timkin assembly for 169.00 OK? Thanks in advance for your wisdom.

  15. I purchased the Timken Hub for my 2004 2500 HD 4×4 Duramax. Anyone happen to know the torque specs for my truck?

    Much Obliged,

    Jimmy

  16. I too had to replace my hub bearings on my duramax. It is a 2004 hd 3/4 ton. The brake braket is 221 ft pounds, the axle nut is 160 ft pounds and the four bolts, holding the hub on is 133 ft pounds. This is what i done mine at after many hours of research, I just replaced them two weeks ago.

  17. Dave Gillingham

    Thanks so much for the excellent advice on how to change out the hub assembly! My 2003 2500HD 4×4 differed somewhat from the instructions (no Torx, bolts for example), but it wasn’t a problem. The caliper bolts (22mm) were a bear, but everything else went smoothly. I used a NAPA hub. My truck only has 56K on it, and my right hub assy was totally shot. I have never off-roaded the truck, and it has only been in 4wd about 4 times for very short distances. The fact that the hubs are so easy to get suggests that this is a serious weak spot in the design.

  18. Anybody know What the torque for the axle nut on a 2006 4X4 and if the bearing is pressed on?
    thanks

  19. Torque is 155lb or 204nm according to partswholesale one of the manufactures

  20. How do you get the hub mounting bolts off if there stripped

  21. Nice tutorial, very helpful. I am going to suggest it to the users over at Mudding.org. Thanks.

  22. Is it possible to go from automatic four wheel drive hubs to stander ed warn hubs for a 2005 chevy silverado,and is it costly ??

  23. Wondering torque of axle nut on a 99 gmc suburban 1/2 ton

  24. What is the torque for the three bolts holding the hub assembly for a 2003 chevy HD 4×4.

  25. I had to take the axel off past the covered universal joints with the tire still on, raise and remove the tire and then hammer it out of the bearing with a brass punch before I removed it from the spindle. Now I need the torque specs for those six (I think six maybe eight) axle bolts to put it back. Any suggestions?

  26. I replaced mine today on a 2004 Silverado 1500 4×4. I had to buy a new shield because I bent one getting the old hub off and couldn’t pound it back straight. $22 at the local Chevy dealer and it went together easily. For those looking for torque specs, I suggest getting the Haynes manual for your vehicle. All the torque specs are in there. Good luck and thanks for the guide!

  27. I tried hammer and srewdriver and wd 40 all of the above etc. then I bought a $26. air chisel and hub came off like nothing, also make shore you use 6 point socket and wrenches with cheater pipe if needed

  28. I used this method today to replace my right front hub/bearing. Great How-To. Make sure to loosen the axle nut before you take the wheel off, also I found that using a metal chisel and slowly working the gap between the knuckle and hub works well for getting the hub to break free, slow process but there is no giant swinging sledge hammer. Thanks for the help!

  29. In case anyone is wondering how to get the hub separated from the knuckle, you can remove the hub/knuckle assembly completely by removing the nuts on the upper and lower ball joint, keep the socket on the nuts, and hit them with a hammer. If you go from one bolt to the next, it will come out. This is how I did mine. Another way is just using a chisel and hammer, and hit the chisel right at the point where the castings meet. If you change your position every time, it will eventually separate. I have done this method as well.

  30. This may sound like a stupid question. No where in the directions does it say to grease the new hub bearing. Is that because it’s taken for granted or is the hub assembly a sealed bearing which requires no grease?

  31. The hub assembly comes greased and ready to bold on.. I am no mechanic by any means, but I was able to tackle this job on my own, and keep about 6-800 dollars in my own pocket. So I do recommend trying to do this job on your own if ya wanna save money! Great first project for beginners!

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