How To Diagnose, Repair, Remove & Replace A Front Intermediate Shaft Bearing Assembly aka Front Axle Disconnect Assembly On A Chevy Trailblazer, GMC Envoy, Olds Bravada, Buick Rainier, Or Saab 9-7x
Well here is another part that is very common to fail with a bunch of different names to confuse you and us:
1. Front Differential Axle Disconnect Assembly (Most Normal People Call It This)
2. Intermediate Shaft Bearing Assembly (GM Dealers Call It This)
3. Splined Disconnect or Gear Pods
In lamans terms, this part basically disconnects or disengages the front drive axle when the driver switches from 4WD to RWD or 2-Wheel Drive. Their are 2 different versions of front differentials on these vehicles, One is called S4WD (Selectable 4-Wheel Drive) & A4WD (Automatic 4-Wheel Drive). The S4WD differential contains both an actuator & the axle disconnect. For our article, we will call it the FRONT AXLE DISCONNECT ASSEMBLY for the S4wd models and INTERMEDIATE SHAFT BEARING ASSEMBLY for the A4wd models, more info as you read.
Parts Involved: Image 1 is the Front Axle Disconnect (2 Versions GM Part #:15884292 or 15884291), Image 2 is the Front Differential Actuator (GM Part #: 12471631) which engages the front axles. Purchase both parts together here
Here is information about the 2 different front drive axle(s), courtesy of General Motors:
S4WD- Selectable Four Wheel Drive Axle Description & Operation:
The image below shows the actuator (top) and how it bolts to the disconnect assembly(bottom)
The front drive axle on the S4wd or Selectable 4-Wheel Drive differentials use a disconnect mounted right next to the passenger side CV axle and oil pan. Their is both an actuator that is used to engage the front axles when 4WD is enabled & a disconnect assembly that is used to disengage the front axles when switched back to 2WD or Rear Wheel Drive.
In the exploded view above, the yellow box is the components of the 4WD axle disconnect assembly and the green box is the axle actuator. These parts are sold separately and if you are replacing the disconnect assembly, you should also strongly consider replacing the actuator as it must be removed to install the new disconnect assembly. The red box is the front differential.
When the driver switches to 4-Wheel Drive, the TCCM(Transfer Case Control Module or 4WD computer) sends a signal to the electric actuator mounted on the disconnect and it energizes a plunger to extend out and push the clutch fork and clutch fork sleeve out to engage the drive axles. This engages 2 gears inside the differential and makes the front differential act very similar to a non locking rear differential or in other words a semi-floating axle used on RWD cars for years. This is done because a traditional ring & pinion gear set is used to transmit the driving force from the engine and transfer case to the front differential. This type of front differential allows for the turning of the front wheels so each wheel can spin at different speeds during a turn and still use the power generated from the engine. This prevents your tires from being dragged across the pavement during a turn and more importantly prevents the internal gears from being damaged. The front drive axles are also CV axles and allow for turning also and absorbs much of the turning force.
A4WD- Automatic Four Wheel Drive Axle Description & Operation:
This part of the article we will call the front axle disconnect, the proper GM name of Intermediate Shaft Bearing Housing Assembly as this system, the name actually makes sense. This is because the differential intermediate shaft slides through the Intermediate Shaft Bearing Housing and rides on bearings inside the assembly. In fact bearing failure inside the housing is one of the biggest causes of replacement. Once the bearings start to fail, they will make noise and these noises are a symptom of the housing needing replacement. The A4wd front differentials are similar but they do not have an electric actuator and they do not actually use the disconnect assembly to disengage the 4WD. This is also one way for you to determine which system you have. If you look under the vehicle where the inner passenger side CV axle connects to the front differential, you will see the axle disconnect assembly. If a black plastic unit is attached to it, then you have the S4wd (selectable) and if you do not have it, then you have the A4wd(automatic). The image below shows the electronic actuator and the intermediate bearing assembly outlined in red.
The A4WD models uses the same differential carrier assembly, however the Intermediate Axle Bearing Housing Assembly is slightly different. The clutch fork, clutch fork sleeve, and gears have been replaced with a single splined sleeve that connects the right side drive axle to the inner axle shaft directly. This allows the passenger side CV axle to be directly connected to the intermediate axle shaft inside the differential. If the transfer case is activated by the PCM, then the clutch assembly within the transfer case controls the amount of torque applied to the front differential.
Ok, So now we know what these parts are and how they work. Next is the symptoms associated with a failed or failing Front Axle Disconnect/Intermediate Shaft Bearing Housing Assembly
1. Their is usually NOT a trouble code set set when these fail so a check engine or 4wd light may not even illuminate on the dash
2. The vehicle fails to engage into 2WD, 4WD, or AWD
3. Noise – A rattle in the front end is noticeable at lower speeds and no external components of the suspension or steering have play or damage
4. Excessive play in the axle shaft connection inside the axle disconnect.
Remove & Replace Instructions:
1. Raise & support the vehicle properly, remove the passenger front wheel, splash shield, & then remove the passenger front CV axle.
2. On S4WD models, remove the electric axle actuator from the axle disconnect assembly by removing the 2 bolts and electrical connector. This part is also very common to fail, If this part has not yet been replaced, then we strongly recommend replacing it now or at a minimum test it. If you think about it, the axle actuator has gone through just as many cycles as the disconnect and if the disconnect failed, well then the axle actuator is probably right behind it.We have seen it over and over in our shop, not this exact part but parts similar to this, Think about the labor you are already doing and if it were my vehicle I would be replacing the actuator at the same time. If you have A4WD, then you can skip this step as you do not have this actuator on your vehicle.
3. Remove the wire harness clip located on the axle disconnect.
4. Remove the 4 bolts attaching the axle disconnect from the front differential. The images below show both systems:
4. Remove the old disconnect assembly
5. Remove the new part from the box and remove the protective plastic plugs inside of each seal.
6. The new units are pre-greased internally from the factory, however just like most any seal, it is a good idea to apply a small amount of lube along the lip of each seal with your finger. This prevents the seals form being damaged when the metals shafts slide through them during installation.
7. Install the new unit and make sure it is flush to the oil pan.
8. Tighten the 4 axle disconnect attaching bolts to the differential to 35 foot lbs.
9. On S4wd electric shift models, clean the actuator on the point where actuator meets the internal shift fork of the new disconnect unit. Install the actuator, Tighten the 2 bolts of the electric actuator to the axle disconnect to 53 Inch Pounds
10. Reinstall the remainder of the items in the reverse order.
IMPORTANT NOTES: Do not nick or cut the inboard oil pan inner shaft seal!! Also the axle disconnect must fit flush against the oil pan in order for the inner axle shaft to line properly!!
Volkswagen and Audi, 1.8L Turbocharger engines with codes for a misfire; PO300, PO3010, PO302, PO303 and PO304. These codes or often caused by the individual (coil-on-plug) ignition systems. Symptoms other than a check engine light would include loss of power, poor throttle response, misfire (bucking) and vehicle engine shutting off.
In most conditions a misfire (engine Bucking) will point to a component of ignition system- spark plug, coil or wiring. Volkswagen and Audi vehicles with the the 1.8L turbocharged seem to have problems with the coil-on-plug ignition systems. Most likely the excessive heat causes the ignition coil and/or the harness to become brittle and cracked leading to engine misfires or failure.
Vehicles w/ 1.8L turbocharged engines
2006-2001 Audi A4�
2004 Audi A6
2005-2003 Audi Allroad Quattro�
2006-2005, 2002-2001 Audi TT
2005, 2001 Volkswagen Beetle
2005-2000 Volkswagen Golf
2004-2001 Volkswagen GTI
2005-2001 Volkswagen Jetta
Ford Vechicles with repeated false EGR codes, due to Delta Pressure Feedback of EGR (DPFE) Hose having vacuum leak
Ford vehicles with Pressure Feedback EGR Sensors (PFE) or Differential Pressure Feedback EGR Sensor (DPFE), may experience repeated false codes for the EGR system. This condition may be due to a hose problem, this hose is subject to high temperatures (melting) and carbon debris blockage.
Other than a repeated check engine light, some driveability conditions that may be experienced include engine bucking (surging) during initial off-idle acceleration or cruising and may become as bad as engine stalling during deceleration.
This TechSmart™ kit is a real problem solver featuring an extra heavy-duty hi-temp design to handle the pressure that ordinary hoses cannot.
2000-1995 Lincoln Town Car
2000-1998 Ford Contour
2000-1998 Mercury Grand Marquis
2000-1998 Mercury Mystique�
2000-1999, 1995-1994 Mercury Cougar
2001-1996 Ford Light Truck Explorer / Sport / Sport Trac
2001-1997 Ford Light Truck Windstar
2001-1997 Mercury Mountaineer
2002 Ford Thunderbird
2002 Lincoln Blackwood�
2002-2000 Lincoln Ls
2002-1997 Ford Escort�
2002-1998, 1995 Ford Crown Victoria
2002-1999 Lincoln Continental
2004-2003 Ford Light Truck E Series Medium Duty Van
2004-2003 Mazda Tribute
2004-2003, 2000 Ford Focus�
2004-1996 Ford Light Truck E Series Fullsize Van
2004-1996 Ford Light Truck F Series Fullsize Pickup
2004-1997 Ford Light Truck Expedition
2004-98 Lincoln Navigator�
2004-1998, 1995-1994 Ford Mustang�
2005 Lincoln Aviator�
2005-2000 Ford Light Truck Excursion
2005-2003, 2000-1998 Mercury Sable
2007-2003, 2000-1996 Ford Taurus
2007-2005 Mercury Mariner
2007-1998 Ford Light Truck Ranger
2007-1998 Mazda Pickup�
2008-2003 Ford Light Truck Escape
1994 Mercury Capri�
1996 Ford Light Truck Bronco
1999-1998 Mercury Tracer
How To Remove/Replace/Inspect/Install A Camshaft Phaser Sprocket On A Ford/Lincoln Navigator/Mercury Mountaineer For Engine Variable Valve Timing
NOTE: This repair requires extensive knowledge & experience and is probably best done by a professional ASE certified automotive technician.
The variable valve timing (VVT) camshaft phaser is a sprocket that will alter its position in reference to commands from the PCM for variable valve timing. When this fails, the check engine light is illuminated, the vehicle may run rough, and experience a loss of power along with valve train noise.
This repair should be done by a qualified technician and requires a labor time of, left side or both estimated at 10.2 hrs
Special tools required- Valve Spring Compressor OTC 303-1039 and Timing Chain Wedge OTC 303-1175
Timing chain procedures must be followed exactly or damage to valves and piston will result.
CAUTION- damage to the Phaser sprocket will occur if mishandled or used as a lifting or leveraging device.
1. Position the crankshaft pulley spoke to the 12 o’clock position and the timing mark indentation to the 1 o’clock position.
2. Remove the valve cover
3. Loosen and back-off the camshaft phaser, sprocket bolt one full turn
4. Disconnect the camshaft position sensor electrical connector, remove the hold down bolt and sensor.
note- if the camshaft lobes are note exactly positioned as shown, the crankshaft will require one full additional rotation.
Right hand camshaft—-the No. 1 cylinder camshaft exhaust lobe must be coming up on the exhaust stroke. verify by noting the position of the 2 intake camshaft lobes and the exhaust lobe on the No. 1 cylinder.
Left hand camshaft— the No. 5 cylinder camshaft lobe must be coming up on the exhaust stroke. Verify by noting the position of the 2 intake camshaft lobes and the exhaust lobe on the No. 5 cylinder
5. Remove only the 3 camshaft roller followers shown in the illustration.
Caution- Do not allow the valve keepers to fall off the valve or they may drop into the cylinder. Roller Followers must be installed in their original locations. It may be necessary to push the valve down while compressing the spring.
After removing the three cam roller followers, rotate the crankshaft clockwise, positioning the crankshaft damper spoke to the 6 o’clock position and the timing mark indentation to the 7 o’clock position.
Timing chain wedge tool
This tools must be installed square to the timing chain and the engine block. Do not remove tool at any time during servicing, if tool is removed during assembly the engine front cover must be removed to retime engine chain.
6. Scribe marks on camshaft phaser and chain, before removing camshaft.
7. Loosen camshaft bearing cap bolts in sequence. Inspect front thrust bearing cap oil metering groove for foreign debris.
If Removing the camshaft do not allow the roller followers to move out of position. All parts removed, bearing caps and rollers need to go back in there original locations.
8. Remove the camshaft phaser. After removing camshaft phaser sprocket, inspect the sprocket for missing or damaged roll pins.
remove the sprocket from camshaft, is the location pin deformed or damaged, Replace.
Inspecting the Camshaft Phaser, visually inspect the camshaft phaser and sprocket for squareness. If the trigger wheel or spring is deformed or damaged, install a new camshaft phaser
When installing the new Camshaft Phaser transfer the original scribe mark to the new camshaft phaser sprocket.
9.Install the camshaft into the camshaft phaser sprocket, lining up the dowel pin and installing the sprocket bolt finger-tight
10. Install the camshaft phaser into position, verify the sprocket and timing chain scribe marks are still in alignment.
11.Lubricate and install the camshaft bearing caps. install the front position cap first, then the remaining caps, installing the bolts loosely.
12. Torque camshaft cap bolts in sequence to 89 Lb-in
13. remove the timing cam wedge tool. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise half turn, positioning the crankshaft damper spoke at 12 o’clock and the timing mark indentation at 1 o’clock.
verify correct camshaft position-
-Left-hand camshaft position of No. 5 cylinder intake and exhaust lobes
-Right-hand camshaft position of the No. 1 cylinder intake and exhaust camshaft lobes
14.Using the spring compressing tool, install the 3 originally removed camshaft roller followers
15. Install the CMP sensor and torque bolt to 89 Lb-in. Connect the CMP electrical connector.
16. Use a two step torque sequence, on the Camshaft Phaser Sprocket Bolt
1. tighten to 30 lb-ft
2. tighten an additional 90 degrees
Replaces Ford part #: 3R2Z-6A257-DA
- Ford Expedition 2005-2011 5.4L V8 24V
- Ford Explorer 2006-2011 4.6L V8 24V
- Ford Explorer Sport Trac 2007-2010 4.6L V8 24V
- Ford F150 2004-2011 5.4L V8 24V
- Ford F150 2009-2011 4.6L V8 24V
- Ford F250 Super Duty 2005-2010 5.4L V8 24V
- Ford F350 Super Duty 2005-2010 5.4L V8 24V
- Ford F450 Super Duty 2005-2010 5.4L V8 24V
- Ford F550 Super Duty 2005-2010 5.4L V8 24V
- Ford Mustang 2005-2010 4.6L V8 24V
- Lincoln Navigator 2005-2011 5.4L V8 24V
- Mercury Mountaineer 2006-2011 4.6L V8 24V
Ford Triton V8 Spark Plug Information & How To Repair, Problems Include: Blow Out, Spit Out, Seized, Frozen, Stripped, Broken, Stuck In Cylinder Head, & Special Tools, Thread Inserts Needed To Repair
SKILL LEVEL: Above Average – This repair requires a strong knowledge & experience level of auto repair and may be best done by an ASE certified auto technician.
If you own a Ford Truck made before 2007 and you ever got a very high quote to simply replace spark plugs, then this article is for you. Any shop worth its salt knows full well the issues with trying to remove spark plugs form the Triton V8 3-Valve engine and they will quote it accordingly. They also know that if you attempt to do this job yourself, you will most likely be back to their shop for a much more expensive job of removing or repairing the cylinder heads. The simple fact is that almost every time you attempt to remove these spark plugs, at least one of them breaks off into the cylinder head or worse the threads from the cylinder head are damaged or come out with the spark plug. This article explains the extremely common spark plug problems on Ford V8 engines. Their are 2 different issues to address: The first is one or more spark plug(s) broken off or stuck in the cylinder head, The 2nd is the spark plug has blown out of the cylinder head and/or the threads are stripped or pulled out.
The image below shows a spark plug(in the red circle) broken off inside the cylinder head
Issue #1: Spark plug(s) stuck in cylinder head or broken off.
The OE extended spark plugs on these trucks are very long and the threads are not attached to the body of the spark plug which allows the spark plug to twist from the torque of trying to unscrew it from the cylinder head. This issue normally pops up when spark plugs are being removed & replaced for normal maintenance or misfire problem. Ford’s recommended replacement interval for spark plugs on most all of these affected vehicles is 100,000 miles. My own personal opinion is that waiting until 100,000 miles is asking for trouble and I believe waiting that long contributes to these spark plug problems. A spark plug goes through trillions & trillions of cycles during a 30,000 mile period, imagine how much abuse they go through in 100,000 miles. We see most trucks coming in with a misfire problem at around 60,000-90,000 miles. Also the cylinder head is aluminum, the spark plug has steel and other components and the 2 dissimilar metals will lead to corrosion. Every time I remove spark plugs from one of these Ford engines, the threads of the spark plugs are rusty & the base of the spark plug is rusty. The other thing that leads to these breaking off is that the OE spark plug is a 2 piece design and you can see from the images below the difference. This 2-piece design and waiting to 100,000 miles allows excessive carbon deposits to buildup between the lower electrode of the plug & the upper body of the plug.
Champion makes a spark plug that is 1 piece and while you should always try to put OE back on, In this case you may want to consider switching to Champion for their 1 piece design. So with all of that said, If you change your plugs at 30K intervals, you have a much better chance of avoiding the plugs breaking and you may even prolong the life of your ignition coils too.
Recommended steps to try and remove plugs without breaking them:
1. CHANGE THEM EARLY, Do not wait until 100K or until you have a misfire. I do a full tune up on my own truck at 30,000 miles. Of course I enjoy doing this type of work and don’t mind at all.
2. Let the vehicle cool, Ford specifically calls out in their TSB to allow the engine to fully cool and do not attempt spark plug removal on a hot engine. Soak all the spark plugs with a good carb/throttle body cleaner, the goal is for the carbon cleaner to weaken the carbon buildup that naturally occurs on the spark plugs, Spray all around the base of the spark plug and then let is sit for about an hour or more, Repeat as necessary, You can do this the night before and then again the morning of just to help get as much penetration as possible. A high quality penetrating oil should be used next like Aerokroil or PB-Blaster
3. Attempt to loosen each plug very carefully only about 1/4 turn. Use premium good quality tools that allow you to get a good solid strong and square position on each spark plug. Once you have them each 1/4 turn loose, then spray more penetrating oil and let it sit, This may sound like a pain, but if you can get the plugs out without them breaking, you have avoided some serious frustration and cost. The passenger side of the engine is where most breakage occurs so pay special attention their.
4. If a spark plug breaks and it usually will if you wait until 100K, then you will need one of these kits to remove the rest of it from the cylinder head. I have used the Lisle 65600 and it worked like a charm and it only took about 15 minutes. Dorman 42045 is similar, however I have not yet used that one and cannot say how it works but lots of them sell.
Issue #2. Spark plugs are loose or actually blow right out of the cylinder head and typically strip or pull the threads out with them.
Believe it or not this actually happens and it happens very often. Typical symptoms include very loud exhaust popping noise coming from the engine bay area, immediate misfire, and very likely a check engine light will follow shortly their after. Oh and one more symptom is that their is probably a spark plug or pieces of a spark plug laying around in your engine bay somewhere and your ignition coil may or may not still be attached to the top of that spark plug. Look at the coil tower next to the missing spark plug and the retaining bolt and a small piece of the ignition coil are probably still their. Ford has issued a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) #: 07-21-2 which replaces TSB #: 7-15-2, This TSB explains that Ford has an authorized repair kit available so you can repair the stripped or missing threads inside the cylinder head instead of replacing the cylinder head. Below we have listed the expensive Ford authorized kit & the much cheaper aftermarket ones available.
Ford Authorized Repair Kit: Rotunda 302-00001 – Very Expensive
Aftermarket Repair Kits Available:
TimeSert 5553 – Professional Kit
NOT FINISHED, MORE TO COME
2005-2008 Ford Escape and 2006-2008 Mercury Mariner, Hybrid Electric Water Pump Diagnostic Procedure and Replacement
2005-2008 Ford Escape Hybrid and 2006-2008 Mercury Mariner
Overheating condition for Hybrid vehicles. This condition may exhibit a Red Triangle Light (“Stop Safely Light” or “High Motor Temperature“) and/or codes indicating a transaxle over-temperature. Result in reduced power, as the system activates fail safe operation.
Today’s vehicle manufacturers rely more on hybrid technology to meet federal emission standards but this sophisticated technology creates new challenges. Something as elementary as a water pump that once simply cooled the engine, is now also responsible for cooling the massive batteries used in today’s hybrid vehicles. A TechSmart™ hybrid electric water pump offers today’s technician a complete solution for replacing the failed OE water pump that can cause a hybrid vehicle’s battery to overheat.
Ford has issued a few Technical Service Bulletin, the lastest being 08-24-5, issued on December 8, 2008.
Superseding Bulletin 08-15-1, date of issue August 4, 2008.
Other related reference numbers: 05-23-6, 06-1-1, 06-11-10, 06-13-1, 06-26-11, 07-13-8, 07-23-2, 07-2-8, 08-24-5, 08-3-8, 08-4-16
The codes that may be set P1A0E, P1A0F, POA3C, POPA3E, POA7A, POA7C, and P1A0D.
Before condemning the Motor Electronics Cooling System (“MECS”). Check for engine coolant system loss or base engine overheating concerns, follow normal diagnosis in cases of engine overheating. Once you verify engine cooling systems are correct (fluid levels and no leaks), you are ready to move on to the MECS pump diagnostic procedure.
Is the electric pump running?
If so, verify coolant flow into the MECS reservoir. If there is no flow check to see that you don’t have any hoses that are pinched or twisted.
If pump is not running, tap on housing and listen for pump to turn on. If pump turns on, replace pump.
If tapping on the pump does not turn the pump on, verify the connector has voltage.
If voltage is present double check that the connector is fully seats in pump, before replacing pump.
The MECS can only be accessed from under the vehicle. The electric pump is located on the core support, below the radiator, near the oil filter.
Replacing the electric water pump only requires removing the Splash shield, two hose clamps, two 10mm bolts and one electrical connector.
Dodge Ram Pickup Wiper Transmission/Linkage/Motor Broken, Un-attached, Came Apart, Pulled Apart, How To Replace
The mechanical linkage between the wiper motor and wiper arms is typically called a wiper transmission or wiper linkage assembly. Dodge also calls this a wiper module. The wiper transmission assembly allows the mechanical rotary output of the wiper motor to transfer that power to 2 wiper arms/blades. This mechanical linkage provides millions of cycles of operation over the years and therefor is prone to failure. Also using the wiper in heavy weather conditions like ice & snow put much more strain on the wiper transmission. Many times the wiper transmission will come apart and this will cause the wiper to move separately from each other, not work at all, or work sporadically.
Tools Required: Basic hand tools including screw drivers, wrenches, ratchets & sockets is all that is needed for this repair.
The following instructions are specifically for a 2003-2005 Dodge Ram Pickup, however they are very similar for many vehicles:
Step 1. Remove the wiper arms from the vehicle. Lift the wiper blades away from the windshield. Once you lift them to about 90 degrees from the windshield, they will stay in place. Next search around the bottom of the wiper arm where it attaches to the wiper transmission. Once you find the base of the wiper arm, their is a little lever to lift up or pull out, This lever is what locks the wiper arms to the wiper transmission. Once you lift that lever, gently rock the wiper arms up and off of the wiper transmission pivots.
Step 2. Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal
Step 3. Remove the Cowl, which is the cover located below the windshield and where the wiper pivots stick out. The wiper transmission or wiper module as Dodge calls it, is located under this cowl. Their will be a rubber hood seal at the front edge of the cowl to remove, This simply pulls off. Their will be 6 push pin fasteners located around the front perimeter of the cowl. Remove these, then their is 2 bolts holding the cowl in place. These bolts are located at each corner of the cowl.Remove these bolts and now you can lift the cowl up and out of the way.
Step 4. Unplug the wiring harness for the wiper motor, This is a snap together connector located at the back of the wiper motor. Some models may have a little lock tab that should be released.
Step 5. Remove the 2 bolts attaching the wiper module in place. See image below:
Step 6. Remove the remaining screw that is securing the wiper module to the bottom of the cowl plenum.
Step 7. Lift out and remove the wiper module/wiper transmission assembly
Installation is the same steps in reverse order.
TIPS: The number one cause of wiper transmission failure besides normal wear and tear is running the wipers during any condition that stresses the wiper system as a whole. This is typically snow or ice. It is strongly recommended to remove any snow, ice, or other debris from the windshield before running the wipers. The wiper system was never designed to remove anything from the windshield besides normal rain.
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The 2003, 2004, 2005 and 2006 Honda Accord have a very common problem, the shifter button on the automatic transmission gear shift handle breaks off. This can be frustrating, and embarrassing when the shift knob button suddenly comes springing out of the handle. We have released a great kit which can save people a lot of headache, because it’s actually a simple fix. We have put together a video that walks you through how to perform this easy repair.
How To Remove & Replace a Toyota Corolla/Celica or Geo Prizm Exhaust Manifold & Gasket with 1.6L or 1.8L Engine
Vehicles Affected 1990-1997 Toyota Celica, 1990-1997 Toyota Corolla (w/ O2 sensor in exhaust pipe), 1990-1997 Geo Prism (w/ O2 sensor in exhaust pipe), 1988 Chevrolet Nova
1.6l and 1.8l engines
General procedure for replacing Dorman exhaust manifold 674-164, on Chevrolet/Geo/Toyota with 1.6L and 1.8L engines.
Before starting any repairs, there are some general procedures to follow for safety precautions. Doing this repair requires some under car work. First you must raise and support the front of the car, using ramps or jack stands. (You should NEVER just rely on a hydraulic jack to hold vehicle up) Second, disconnect the negative battery cable, so not to short anything out while disconnecting and removing parts from vehicle.
Now moving on to the removal of the exhaust manifold.
1. remove all electrical wires and vacuum hoses that interfere with removal of the exhaust manifold.
2. remove upper heat insulator from exhaust manifold.
3. loosen the 2 bolts with compression springs, connecting the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe.
4. There may be a exhaust stay bolt (mounting tab) located near the manifold to pipe area, this must also be removed.
5. remove the seven stud nuts holding the manifold to cylinder head (in some cases the stud will remove with nut, this is ok, just remember to reinstall in same locations)
Exhaust pipe- the old donut gasket has been removed and the mounting surface is cleaned of all old gasket material.
Cylinder head- the old manifold gasket has been removed and surface has been cleaned.
If any of the studs, nuts or bolts look questionable due to rust. We suggest replacing them with factory bolts or grade 8 strength replacments. Install new studs in new exhaust manifold.
Installation of exhaust manifold.
1. Install manifold gasket on studs. (gasket may be labaled front or back for installation)
2. Install exhaust manifold to cylinder head, installing all flange nuts a few turns by hand to ensure proper alignment.
It’s always best to install all mounting hardware a few turns by hand to ensure part and fastener alignment, before tighting.
3. fit exhaust donut gasket in groove, and hand tighten exhaust nuts to keep gasket in place.
4. reinstall exhaust stay bracket bolts
5. Torque exhaust manifold bolts to 25 ft. lbs.
6. Tighten exhaust mounting stay to 25 ft. lbs.
7. Torque exhaust pipe-to-exhaust manifold nuts to 46 ft. lbs.
8. Install exhaust manifold heat insulator
9. Torque heat insulator bolts to 71 inch lbs.
10. Reinstall all electrical wires and vacuum hoses that were disconnected for removal of the exhaust manifold.
Lower the vehicle safely and reconnect the negative battery cable.
•Start the engine and make sure that there are no exhaust leaks.
New exhaust manifold will have a funny smell for the first few miles of opperation, while the anti-corrosion coating burns off.
People often ask why their new part has a “Hollander” part number on it. Is Hollander a brand? What exactly is a Hollander part?!
Hollander is nothing more than a universal part numbering system. Hollander is a company which was originally created in the 1930’s to help the salvage yard industry organize their parts into a universal and interchangeable part numbering system. You can read their interesting company history here: Hollander Interchange Company History . Their numbering system has recently taken off for more than just the salvage industry. Many internet auto-parts companies, such as www.apdty.com and brands like Dorman, are using this flexible system as a way of identifying what vehicles their parts fit. You can often do an internet search for a single Hollander part number and find multiple companies and brands that have the part you are looking for. So next time you are wondering what that strange looking Hollander part number is, just thank Mr. Hollander for helping to ensure that the part you have is the correct one for your car.
Written by Joe Stepnicka